Off The Rhumb Line


Leave a comment

Moving on

GrandTeton-20140918-55636

The Blog has remained dark since my return from the grand school bus adventure across Europe to Mongolia over a year ago.  I was encouraged, and even inspired, to start writing again after a conversation I had a few weeks ago with a friend. It’s taken me awhile to put it to print however.

My passion for photography has been re-ignited from its quiet slumber like a volcano erupting after years of silence, lying quiet and dormant, until one least expects its awakening.

I had a break-in at my house a number of years ago where all my camera and computer gear had been stolen. The laptop was a quick and easy replacement.   The camera gear, not so much. My yearn for photography had been ebbing, I wasn’t sure what I wanted to “say”, the industry was changing, replacing my gear meant going all DSLR. The theft had apparently been the final straw. Like Kodachrome slide film, we faded into the night, quieting letting go

It will be 2 years ago next week that I headed off to the Galapagos Islands for a “once in a lifetime” trip. A reward for having spent the previous few years advocating my mom’s health care through a very difficult time, and then some of my own. She insisted that I finally buy myself a new camera before leaving. So I did. It didn’t work. I was, stunningly, offered one to borrow. I am so blessed and grateful by this simple act of kindness, from what was then a complete stranger, in the middle of nowhere. It has changed my life in ways I can not even begin to fully yet realize.

Maybe it was the blue footed boobies, tortoises, or iguanas, or maybe just the sparkling seas and blue sky after such a stormy and heart wrenching period in my life, but inspiration struck. The passion was reignited. That small nagging little voice down in the dark depths of my being, began screaming, quite boisterously to be let back out into the sunlight. The beauty I was seeing, everywhere, was yearning to be expressed via an art form I had ignored for far too long.

It has been an amazing 2 years, and I’ve been lucky to go on a few more of those “once in a lifetime” journeys. I have been blessed to share them with amazing people who have become my friends, encouraging, supporting, and teaching me. Each trip has been, well…mostly just awe-inspiring! I feel like a butterfly, that was stuck in a cocoon too long. Having emerged, I’ve been able to see, through a new lens, through different eyes.   I’m thoroughly re-addicted.

All good, right? Well, YES! But, what seems to go hand in hand with having moved from the golden age of 35mm film into the digital one, I have managed to amass myself in no short order, TENS OF THOUSANDS of images . I’ve had a grand time taking them all, but to be frank, not every one ever deserves to ever see the light of day again.

Hence – comes the crux of deleting. It has been an overwhelming task for me to figure out how to weed through them. I am thankful I have found a few kind souls to lean on to start teaching me how, but it is no easy task for me.

I have been fascinated, even jealous, to watch fellow photographers, most recently in Alaska, manage to sort through a couple thousand (or more) photo day, and in under 20 minutes, have it narrowed down to a few dozen or less. Their secret? The RUTHLESS “DELETE” key. I’ve decided this evil (?) Delete key really is a metaphor for life.

Photographers diligently back up their prized photos on 2 or even 3 external hard drives each evening so as to preserve those spectacular keepers they’ve culled through. Then the camera’s memory cards are reformatted (ERASED!) so they are at the ready to capture the next morning’s shots. Yikes! What if all the hard drives fail? What if you lose all the photos? Oh the Heartache!

Wouldn’t losing all the photos be utter devastation after all the effort of having taken them? Well, what about then deliberately DELETING them? Does deleting those “not quite so perfect” photos take away from our experience, or does it refine it and make the saved images all that more sweet?

Photos hold our memories, our record of our journeys. When natural disasters strike, it seems it’s the photos folks grab first, or wish they had, and miss the most when they’re gone. Most everything else is replaceable.

This past summer, my mother moved out of the house she’d lived in for nearly 40 years.  This was the house my brother and I spent the majority of our childhoods in. She and I had so many discussions on what to save, what to throw out. Sorting through a lifetime of possessions is very overwhelming, but aren’t there great benefits in purging? There are entire TV shows now dedicated to this very topic.

I’ve learned so much, over the past handful of years particularly, about life’s challenges.  So what was my advice to her on her move?  Only take with you what is essential. What fulfills you. What sustains you. What will continue to enrich your life moving forward. Leave behind, with gratitude, that which no longer serves you. Create empty space, mentally and physically, for new growth, new adventures, new challenges. To make room for the new, you have to clean out the old. I thought I was being so smart.  (Of course, I too have dusty boxes in the basement that are in great need of attention and purging.)

I was convinced that without “cleaning house” of the old clutter it left little room for allowing life to evolve. And yet, I can’t seem to delete the multitude of blurry, out of focus, not quite right digital photos that I think might yet have a purpose, someday, somehow. I am now seeing the duplicity of my thinking. I am a digital photo hoarder! Letting go, on a number of levels, seems to be a continuing life challenge for me as well.

Isn’t the purging of digital media, just as important? It is a freeing of the mind, from being bogged down. Deleting allows for new creativity and inspiration to flow in. Artists through the ages have reused canvases, repainting over those they thought didn’t make the grade.

I’ve been told that if you manage to end up with a handful of keepers at the end of the day – it was a grand success. There’s no sense moping about the multitude of the “what it could’ve/should’ve been” photos. Use these “less than ideal” photos as a learning tool in what to do different the next time. Keep the best ones, move on, take more photos. Sounds easy, right? I’m not quite there yet, but I’m game to work on it.

How do I choose to delete something one person may see as trash but someone else may see as art? Do the photos, in and of themselves, define or enrich our experiences?

It’s certainly a reminder, to relish in the passion and joy of the taking of the photos. Remembering to be present, to really sit in the moment, wherever you are on the planet, camera in hand or not, that’s the real trick. To appreciate and have gratitude in the joy and beauty this world has to offer us every day.  We are all works in progress, letting go, moving on, moving forward, searching.

Take the photos, share them, sell them if you’re lucky, but don’t forget to have fun.  The Passion and joy in the taking of the photos will be reflected in the photos themselves.  It is the personal journey that matters most, wherever you are, and wherever you go.

 

Lotus Children’s Centre

2 Comments

Apologies for the protracted delay in posting anything new since Team Dixie Chickens crossed the finish line.  I hope you all enjoy the following!

I was so thrilled today,  August 17, to finally get to see the Lotus Children’s Center orphanage in person!

Lotus

Lotus is one of the charities that we have been raising money for, and that so many of my wonderful friends and family have donated money and supplies to.

This morning we checked out of the Mongol Rally’s official finish line hotel (the Chinggis Khaan) and headed over to The Lotus Guesthouse, the orphanage’s hostel in Ulaan Baatar, where many of the team will be staying during the coming week.  During the summer months many teenagers at the orphanage work at the guesthouse to improve their English, learn hospitality and gain some work experience.  Some teenagers are also training to become tour guides.  For as little as $10/night you can get a warm bed in their very warm, inviting, and comfy secure building which offers free wi-fi, showers, and access to a kitchen.  It is a SUPER deal very close to the heart of UB’s peace avenue and Sukhbaatar Square.   (They also offer more traditional private rooms and apartments for a bit more.)

Suugi, one of the orphanage’s wonderful staff, met us at the guesthouse mid afternoon to join us for the hour long drive out to the orphanage in the school bus.  Once through the UB traffic, the landscape opened up to beautiful mountains, lush valleys with organic farms, and neighborhoods of colorful homes.

It was easy to spot the orphanage/school up on the hillside and my excitement grew as we approached.  A warm friendly, young inquisitive face peered out at us as she slid open the blue entrance gate.  We were quickly surrounded by young girls, who reached out to hold our hands as they fired away questions at us as we stepped off the bus.  Where had we come from? Where did we live? What were our names? How long would we stay?

DSC_6690 DSC_6694DSC_6697DSC_6729

There are currently 65 children living at the orphanage.  29 of the children attend the on-site primary school (grades 1-5).  The older kids are bussed every day into UB to attend various secondary schools.  The school and dental supplies we have carried with us since the campground in Folkestone, UK were quickly unpacked off of the roof rack and taken into the main office where I met Will, and his wife Angie, who are from Guatemala.  They are volunteering at the orphanage/ school for the coming school year.

With the start of the new school year less than 2 weeks away, Will tells me the kids have been questioning him endlessly as to when the new years’ school supplies would be arriving.  I am so excited to be onsite and share with them then the school supplies my friend Dale and I spent so much time together picking out and organizing.  We’ve brought: pencils, sharpeners, erasers, colored pencils, crayons, markers, metric rulers, solar calculators, scissors, and glue sticks, which Dale not only so generously donated, but then also shipped to the campground in the UK we’d began our journey from so I would not have to cart it all the way from Chicago by plane.  My Dentist at home also donated over 100 toothbrushes and tubes of toothpaste for the kids.  Suugi seemed far more excited about these as she said they were really needing them, so huge thanks go out to everyone at Richard Hogan DDS, especially Mindy for all her enthusiasm and support.

DSC_6705 DSC_6707

Suugi gave us a wonderful tour of the grounds and the primary school which was beautiful.  There were a number of very clean and well lit classrooms, complete with a library and computer stations (which had recently been donated by a rotary club in Australia!) I loved all the whimsical artwork painted on the trailers and the walls along the border of the property.  James, an Australian who was spending his summer volunteering at the orphanage, was hard at work building an amazing Gazebo when stopped in.  We’d hoped to see Didi, the founder, but she was still making her way to UB, also driving (and fundraising) on The Mongol Rally.

SONY DSCDSC_6723 DSC_6726 DSC_6738 DSC_6740 DSC_6752 DSC_6761 DSC_6764DSC_6804DSC_6795DSC_6809

After our tour, and walking the grounds,  the throng of kids had made a beeline straight for our school bus and it was instantly transformed into a favorite new jungle gym as they are eagerly climbing all over it, inside and out, up the back ladder and onto the roof  Many took turns behind the wheel, pretending to drive and they seem endlessly fascinated honking the horn.  It is clear, that while the school supplies we’ve brought may be great, THE BUS  is the real star!  The kids were exuding sheer joy out all their pores and it was a delight to watch them.

SONY DSC DSC_6793  DSC_6786DSC_6769DSC_6772DSC_6789  DSC_6784 DSC_6782 DSC_6780 DSC_6778

We spent about 2  hours with the kids, but facing an hour drive back, it was time to go.  We were advised by Will to be sure to check under ALL the seats for any stowaways!

In all, in addition to the supplies we’ve donated, I am excited to say that via the Team Dixie Chickens website, nearly $1600 has been raised, not including the donations made to the team’s paypal account also on behalf of Lotus.  This has definitely been the most rewarding part of the Mongol Rally for me. Thank you so very much to everyone who donated!

Please be sure to visit the website and Facebook page for more info on this amazing organization
https://www.facebook.com/lotuschildrenscentremongolia
http://www.lotuschild.org/about/

I am also very excited to report too, that another Mongol Rally team, Team Detour was also raising money for this wonderful orphanage and as of today: 09/19/13 – according to the Team Detour donation page – they have raised a whopping $11,000 bucks!  – WOW!! (check out Team Detour’s blog for amazing photos of their Rally adventure)

Lastly, but certainly not least, as it turns out, I was delighted to discover that a very dear friend of mine in Vermont is the webmaster for an online music site called Innersong: Music for social and spiritual transformation. (Innersong offers “meditation music, mantra music, Chanting, Relaxation, New Age and World Beat music and has the largest selection of Kiirtan titles with styles from all over the world”)

When I told Tony of my journey this summer, he mentioned that one of the titles Innersong carries is a CD of traditional Mongolian Music put together by Didi, and sung by the kids at the Lotus Children’s Center.  How Perfect! He was able to obtain permission for me to post a track from the CD – so do give a listen.

Badamlyankhai_Page_1Badamlyankhai_Page_3Badamlyankhai_Page_2

You can also listen to samples of a few of the other tracks on the CD at the Innersong link above


The Finished Gazebo: (photo from Lotus Children’s Center Facebook Page)

IMG_0148


4 Comments

THE FINISH LINE

Thursday August 15th

Our last campsite had us about 3-4 hours from Ulaan Baatar and we arrived into town around 2pm in light rain, driving along the full length of Peave Ave towards the finish line and the Chinggis Khaan Hotel.  We stopped about a block away, to decorate the bus in all her glory – US, Mongolian and Irish Flags along with the Dixie Chickens Banner, as we’d expected to arrive under great fan fare and hoorahs! But with the Adventurists….yeah, not so much, it was a bit anti-climactic as we drove the bus up to the front steps of the hotel, and there was no one there to greet us – initially.  But once word of our arrival made it into the lobby – The Adventurisits staff complete with a film crew came on out to greet us.

We are all extremely thrilled and relieved that we were able to actually accomplish this amazing feat!

IMG_0740 IMG_0739 DSC_6605DSC_66141115972_10201535533927973_1161434504_oDSC_6619

DSC_6632 DSC_6630 DSC_6627

 

We have spent 2 days here at the Chinggis, sleeping and recovering from our journey.  Today we move over to the Lotus Guesthouse and this afternoon we will head out to the Orphanage to see the school and meet the kids and to donate all the wonderful supplies that have been gifted to us for this trip for the kids.

 

Tomorrow I head out on a 6 day / 5 night expedition with a guide and private driver to go explore some of central and southern Mongolia as I head on out to Karkorim and then to the Gobi desert.

Blogs that were posted on 08/13/13 have all been updated with photos, so please be sure to go back and check them out.

This is likely the last blog till I hit stateside and fill in the holes of the journey.

Love to all!


1 Comment

Lake Baikal

Tuesday August 13

We’d driven all night friday night into saturday morning  as our goal of reaching Lake Baikal is still 2 days away.

We passed lots of small towns, and each house had massive piles of stacked wood outside their doors – a not so subtle reminder that winters here in Siberia really must be quite fierce, with the wood ikely their only source of heat.

DSC_5698 DSC_5685 DSC_5672

Sunday morning, while stopped for a freight train, we are thrilled to see another Rally car!  It has been weeks since we’ve another team  – and this merry band of frenchmen (& women) driving an ambulance is a wonderful surprise!  We pull over and sign each other’s vehicles, and swap stories and photos!  They’ve picked up another team member whose car crashed in Kazakhstan (those pesky roads) but he was able to sell his scrap car for $1k US, and find another team  – countrymen no less – to finish the race with!  That’s the Rally in a nutshell.

DSC_5789 DSC_5792 DSC_5793 DSC_5794

After a stop in Irkutsk to stock up at the market, we are on the road for our final push to Lake Baikal  – a gorgeous twisty turny drive up & down the hills with vistas every once in awhile.  Top altitude going over the pass was 994 Meters.  The first real overlook of the lake is stunning, full of folks and roadside stands of fish and knick knacks.

DSC_5851 DSC_5882 DSC_5886 DSC_5890 DSC_5894

 

Lake Baikal is also THE only route through from east to west for all freight and passenger trains, and the famous Trans-Siberian Express which travels from Vladisvostok to Moscow, and whose tracks we’ve been following fairly close to for much of our journey across Siberia.

DSC_5856 DSC_5879 DSC_5881 DSC_5902 DSC_5913

 

Getting to the far side of the lake and a camping sport takes us up and down more hills, following the power line cuts.  While the trains go right along the lakeshore, the road is inland and along the higher terrain.  Unfortunately most of the lakeshore is hidden out of sight beyond the treeline.

We successfully find ourselves a campground, down a muddy dirt road, and after having driven all the way from London, virtually without incident due to Sarita’s due diligence at every one of camping sites,  as soon as we arrive on the gravel beach, Don drives just THAT MUCH too far onto the beach, and the bus is STUCK!!  But have no fear, there is not 1, but 3, of the most amazing 4×4 machines I’ve ever seen that comes to our rescue – the Iveco!  Sarah’s been extolling the virtues of these machines for most of our trip, and lo and behold, they are owned by 3 Italian couples, that could not have been more happy to be helping out some of their own contrymen – Pietro and Stefano – and they are as thrilled as over the coming couple of days, they are treated to wine, expresso, and home cooked italian meals!

DSC_5950DSC_5962  DSC_5967 DSC_5970 DSC_5971 DSC_5977

 

Bus freed, and near dark, we set up camp while Tommy gets hard at work building us our first fire of the trip.  It’s a gorgeous evening, and the view form our campsite is tremendous.  The mountains to the west come right down to the shoreline and there is no visible development of any kind along the shoreline, so it is peacefully quiet (except for the steady stream of trains whistling by)

DSC_5955 DSC_6064DSC_6040  DSC_6071

It is also first night of the Perseid Meteor shower – which I am reminded about via an email a few days back from a skipper friend in Chicago – Thanks Jim –  about Siberia and meteors and that I should definitely keep my eyes to the sky.  It is a late night around the fire as I get busy grilling with a beautiful star and meteor filled sky.

Tuesday is a rest day at the lake – after convincing Sarah that NONE of us wanted to pack up and go after having come all this way to this beautiful place.  (Don took a poll via video interviews, and our mutiny won out!).  I washed the bus, (boy was it in dire need!), we swam, did laundry, more grilling, hula hoop lessons, frisbee, and some fierce corn hole competition, particularly when a neighboring Russian kid easily beat us all!

DSC_5997 DSC_5999  DSC_6005 DSC_6011 DSC_6012 DSC_6013 DSC_6001DSC_6016 DSC_6063 DSC_6029 DSC_6026 DSC_6019

After a beautiful sunrise, our trip to Lake Baikal ended the same we it began, with a stuck vehicle, but this time we were the vehicle to the rescue! As one good turn deserves another we were more than happy to pull this VW passat out of the gravel!

DSC_6077 DSC_6080 DSC_6084 DSC_6090

Our next major stop… THE FINISH LINE!

 


Leave a comment

Issyk-Kul to Taldykorgan

Issyk-Kul to Taldykorgan

Monday August 5th

Stefano had been in search of a Lenin statue to photograph for the Vanity Fair article he and Pietro are working on about our adventure. Our drive out of town from Lake Issyk-Kul to Almaty on Saturday had us pass this magnificent example, which, with a perfectly parked bus, and 2 co-conspirators (Don & Caroline) up on top – made for great fun! Especially once we noticed a police offer had emerged out of the government building behind us, standing in the doorway with his hands on his hips! Whoops – RUN AWAY, RUN AWAY.

DSC_4926 DSC_4929

(We later discovered that Sarah’s tweet of her photo had been picked up and had made it onto Kyrgyzstan TV later that night!! )

On the road back to the Kazakhstan border:

DSC_4934 DSC_4938 DSC_4953 DSC_4954 DSC_4958 DSC_4967 DSC_4974 DSC_4983

With no warrants out for our arrest (mocking of an historical figure in public…?) our quick & clean getaway was complete and we were sad to bid Kyrgyzstan adieu. In fact, we were having so much fun chatting with the Kyrgyzstan border guards while they signed our bus, we hadn’t even noticed our passports had been stamped until an official asked us to “move along”.

Back in Kazakhstan, the crush of locals passing between the 2 countries surprised us and was the most folks we’d seen in awhile (and certainly at any border crossing to date). With Don and the bus escaping mostly unscathed from what Will and Tommy had named “The Customs Dungeon” we were on our way to our swanky Holiday Inn in Almaty. (yep, in Kazakhstan!)

When we arrived at the gate to the hotel, the guard took one look at us and the bus, and we were sure he was uttering under his breathe …”None Shall Pass”! But thanks to Sarah’s “La De Dah” elite status and her use of points for our block of rooms, he was forced to call the manager who acquiesced to our request – WHOO HOO!! With access granted, hot showers and cold beer were once again top priorities after our days of camping.

Sarita’s all night editing session and unsuccessful media file uploads to The Adventurists had broken the hotel’s internet! LOL! 🙂 The wi-fi came back on just before we departed at noon, and we were all busy trying to get off one last blog or facebook post before beginning our multi day trek across Eastern Kaz as we headed off in search of the Russian border.

A short drive out of town is where we discovered where all the Kaz locales go on a sunday afternoon: Lake Kapshagay – a large reservoir, with its beach chairs, umbrellas, and water park truly looked like an oasis in the desert!

20130815-174344.jpgDSC_5049 DSC_5056

The afternoon was spent driving through some beautiful countryside dotted with small farming towns. The light that fell across the vast wide open plains was a feast for the eyes. Big white puffy clouds cast their long shadows over the green rolling grasslands, an endless bright blue sky and mountains in the distance

. DSC_5062 DSC_5089 DSC_5092 DSC_5093 DSC_5100 DSC_5115 DSC_5125 DSC_5129 DSC_5140 DSC_5143 DSC_5145 DSC_5157

The occasional passing semi with Military tanks loaded on their flat beds though was a quick reminder as to where we really were.

DSC_5061

I watched another stunning sunset in the distance from the bus window. This one lit up all the surrounding clouds in magnificent orange with shafts of light streaming outward.

DSC_5165

Time to find a place to camp. We all quickly vetoed the first potential site while we, comfortably sitting INSIDE the bus, watched Sarita take one for the team while checking out the off road conditions for the bus. Flailing her arms about like an epileptic in the midst of a terrible seizure, she furiously swatted away at the hungry mosquitos Yeah, not for us. We continued on til near dark and following on in our apparent theme, Sarita and Pietro navigated our way to another fabulous roadside landfill, I mean campsite, around 9pm.

Come morning, our landfill campsite, was not as bad as we’d imagined the night before. Trash aside, the very early morning light on the grasses and nearby hills was really quite beautiful, to me.

DSC_5182DSC_5183